Domaine de la Jaufrette
Frédéric Chastan has vines in the three most important historical vineyards of the southern Rhône, those of Vacqueyras, Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Classified as a Côtes-du-Rhône in 1937, Vacqueyras was the last one to became a growth in 1990. Gigondas was classified in 1971, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape in 1936.
As several winegrowers I will call “from the old school,” (and there are still a few of them), wines are delivered at least four years after the crop, sometimes more. We are offering the vintage 2004, which is already seven years old.
The consequence is that the wine is ready for consumption when it is put up for sale, allowing the buyer to avoid most of the disagreements created by the turbulences of the young wine in the bottle, tannins, acidity, alcohol and fruit having had time to melt, to interpenetrate and create a sensation of comfort.
Those four elements need to be integrated into one another in order to achieve the right balance. Most of the time, seed tannins or grape skins struggle with the fruit soon after bottling, caused by the crop’s quality or tannins from the barrel, which are those brought on by man’s decision. That fight of tannins might last several years depending on the style of the vintage.
The 80-year-old Gigondas vines from the estate are mainly situated on the sandy part of the terroir, giving the wine more finesse than body. You should reserve this wine for Italian-influenced cuisine and specifically that from regions like Tuscany or Emilia-Romagna.
The Vacqueyras is a more angular, rustic and earthy kind of wine that you should pair with ribs or spicy meat dishes such as curry or lamb tajine. Its aromas typically include raspberries and strawberries with a hint of kirsch, but also black truffle, leather and dark chocolate.
The older the Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the more rewarding. Buy a few bottles and forget them in your cellar. Age rewards patience, and complexity will eventually surge from your glass, especially black truffle. Jaufrette’s vines of Châteauneuf are about 50 years old.
The dominant grape is Grenache as it represents 90% of the blend. The remaining 10% is composed of a mix between Counoise, Syrah, and Mourvèdre varieties. The soil, typical of the plateau of Châteauneuf, is composed of clay and limestone covered by the famous pebbles of the area. Those pebbles, like the gravels of the Médoc, accumulate heat during the day to restitute it to the plant during the night, enhancing the maturing process of the grapes.
Côtes-du-Rhône vines are aged around 35, and the blend uses five varieties of grapes: Grenache, of course, like everywhere in southern Rhône; the mourvèdre that brings spices and tannins; Syrah for the perfume; Cinsault for finesse; and Carignan for body and earthiness.
The simple Côtes-du-Rhône of the Domaine is a scandalous bargain. Not only because it is so affordable, but also because it delivers such a great pleasure. Imagine the cost for a huge Mexican, Cajun, Moroccan or pasta bolognese party ... the expression "peanuts" will never seem more adequate!
Winemaking is what it was in the 19th century with old huge barrels called “foudres” where the wines can stay sometimes for years, slowly reaching their optimal maturing point.
Frédéric Chastan has started the conversion process to biological agriculture this year. As it takes approximately three years to obtain the certification, 2014 should be the first crop to be labeled.
